Blue Buddha Boutique -- Newsletter - Sep - Oct - Nov

Classes: Descriptions - Calendar - Teaching Locations & Registration - Private Lessons - Newsletter

September - October - November - December
2008

Aspect Ratio, part II
Entreprenuers
Weave Diagram

Autumn/Winter Classes
Newest Supplies

Happy Autumn!

Most of the folks reading this newsletter make chainmaille jewelry as a hobby, and a few do it as a serious business. I've been asked several times: "Aren't you worried about all these other folks that you're selling instructions to or teaching? You know, that they'll flood the market with their stuff, and drive your jewelry line out of business?"

The answer is no, I'm not afraid. On the contrary, I think it's exciting. I'm confident enough in my skills as an artist, that I believe my work will continue to stand out in a crowd. I fully support those who are looking to make money selling handcrafted goods. To be honest, I'm thrilled when people discover chainmaille for the first time, and of course, the more folks that are making maille, the more folks that will discover maille! It's a good thing for me, my business, and the craft in general to increase awareness about this niche medium and it's wonderful marriage of geometry and creativity.

If you're serious about doing this as a business, I encourage you to learn all you can. Not only should you visit all the various forums and online groups, but you should also approach this with a no-nonsense business attitude. Borrow business books from the library, seek out your local chamber of commerce, and look for in-person or online business classes on a variety of topics. Find mentors that can provide guidance and be a sounding board for ideas. Also, be sure to check out the Entrepreneurs article below for some inspiration! I wish you much success in all your endeavors.

Until next time, much happy mailling to you all! —Rebeca

Aspect Ratio
Part II — Measuring AR

Last issue contained an introduction to Aspect Ratio. This article continues that topic and shows you how to use calipers to measure jump rings. Future issues will continue to delve into Aspect Ratio.

Using Calipers
To measure your jump rings as accurately as possible, you'll want to use vernier or digital calipers, or for the highest accuracy, micrometers. I'll focus on digital calipers, as they are easiest for the layperson to use. (There are various online tutorials for using vernier calipers and micrometers, if you wish to find out more about them.) You can purchase inexpensive calipers at Harbor Freight Tools.

1. Turn on the calipers.
2. Choose millimeters or inches. (It doesn't matter what you choose, but make sure that you use the same system for measuring the wire diameter and the ring diameter, or your results will be skewed!)
3. Use the thumb guide to move the calipers all the way closed. Remove your hand from the guide (this ensures that you aren't putting extra pressure on the calipers.) Press "Zero" to set the baseline.
4. To measure wire gauge or outer diameter, place the large jaws of the calipers around the outside of the object you are measuring. When measuring outer diameter, be sure to keep the ring as straight as possible.
5. To measure inner diameter, use the small jaws at the top of the calipers.
6. Turn off the calipers when you are finished to conserve batteries. Store calipers in their case. Even though the case may look durable, the calipers are very delicate instruments; always handle them gently. Do not drop or jostle them, as that could cause them to give inaccurate readings.

Measuring Rings the Easy Way
If you're short on time, or just don't want to bother with lots of math, this method will give you a pretty good idea of the AR of your rings.

1. Close a jump ring.

2. Use calipers to measure the Inner Diameter. Keep the ring as straight as possible on the calipers; do not let it tilt or slant.

3. Use calipers to measure the Wire Diameter.

4. Plug those numbers into the formula: ID ÷ WD = AR
(Using the photos at right for an example: 8.35 ÷ 1.58 = 5.3)

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Measuring Rings the More Complicated (But More Accurate) Way
This method is more involved than the easy method above, but yields more accurate results.

1. Close several jump rings of the same size.
2. Use calipers to measure the outer diameter twice for each ring. a. Measure the OD at the cut line. b. Rotate the ring 90 degrees, and measure the OD perpendicular to the cut line. Why measure twice? Well, the jump ring is (ideally) a perfect circle before it is cut. After it is cut, the ring has a gap, also known as a kerf. When you close the jump ring, it is actually an oval shape, because of the missing metal where the kerf is. So, you need to measure up and down from the kerf (photo 2a); this is the long side. Additionally, you must the shorter side, which is perpendicular to the kerf (photo 2b). Measuring the OD is better than measuring the ID, because it is easier to keep the ring straight. If you're measuring the ID and the ring is slanted, the calipers will not give an accurate measurement. However, when you're measuring the OD, the ring can only slant ever so slightly before it falls out of the caliper jaws. So, you're much more likely to wind up with accurate readings by measuring the OD.	2a 2b
3. Use calipers to measure the wire diameter. (You can get a few readings for different rings, and then average them, if you'd like, but there shouldn't be deviations, or it could mean that your calipers are out of whack.)
4. Average the ODs (I sometimes drop the highest and lowest figures before averaging), and subtract the WD times 2 to get the ID. (OD - 2WD = ID) A common mistake beginners make is to subtract the Wire Diameter once, instead of twice, but as you can see from the illustration at right, there is wire on both sides of the OD, so you need to subtract the wire diameter twice.
5. Plug into the formula: (average) ID ÷ WD = AR. (Using the photos at right for an example: 8.07 ÷ 1.58 = 5.1)	Download our AR spreadsheet calculator if you get an error, we are working to fix it!

Entrpreneurs — Hungry for Challenges, and Never Detered by Obstacles

Almost six years ago to the date, I remember musing out loud that I'd like to see if I could make a living doing chainmaille. Several veteran maillers told me point blank, "Don't expect to ever make money in this industry." I suppose that would have discouraged many, but it just made me eager to prove them wrong.

I've always believed that you can do anything you put your mind to, and I've always been inspired by other entrepreneurs. The fact that they've made it is proof that anyone can make it, right? I mean, not every successful business owner has a genius IQ or a ground-breaking product! The folks leading the team are just that—nothing more than human beings, just like you and me.

The first entrepreneur to inspire me was probably my father, a perfect example of the American Dream. He grew up in poverty in the mountains of Puerto Rico. He didn't get his first pair of shoes until he was in 4th grade, nor did he have a bed. (Everyone slept in hammocks outside, which sounds great until you consider the rainy season.) When he was in 6th grade, his teacher told him he was stupid, so he dropped out of school.

With the odds stacked against him, my father could easily have given up on trying to escape the cycle of poverty. But, he didn't. Instead, he did odd jobs for a few years, and then went back to school, finally graduating high school at the age of 21. He pursued a degree from the University of Puerto Rico, becoming the first person in his family to attend college. While working as a chef to pay for school, he was also teaching himself English through a correspondence course. After graduation, he came to the mainland to work toward a Master's from the University of Michigan.

Eventually he moved to Chicago and got a job as a teacher. Though he worked for Chicago Public Schools until he retired, he pursued other interests. In the early 80s, he bought a 3-flat apartment building. Entrepreneurs know how to make the most of their dollar, and my father was no exception. He enlisted the cheapest labor he could find (me) to help renovate the buildings. He rented out this building for many years. Eventually he had enough cash flow to invest in a second building, and finally, a third. I remember that he was always a very understanding landlord—probably too lenient, my mother would argue. Unlike other landlords I knew of, he actually cared about his property and his tenants. His attitude made an impression on me, and I vowed that if I were ever in a position of authority, I would treat everyone—subordinates and superiors—with dignity and respect.

My father also loved to cook. At a time when most of my friends grew up eating their mother's cooking, I was reaping the benefits of having a former chef as a dad. I still remember getting served omelets with parsley garnishes(!) for lunch. When I was in middle school, my father decided to open a restaurant. Unfortunately, he and my mother were still both working full-time, and so they weren't able to devote the time necessary to get the restaurant fully off its feet, and after about a year, they sold the business. I know it was a great disappointment to my father, but he dusted himself off, and went right back to being a great landlord.

Though my father's determination and business adventures had a profound affect on my life, they are by no means the only things that influenced me. In college, I had several public relations internships at women-owned businesses. Most of these firms were home-based. I was amazed to discover that one could make a living working from home. From that moment on, I studied every office manual I could get my hands on, because I knew someday I would have my own PR firm.

Well, OK, so we all know I didn't wind up with a PR firm! But the lessons learned, and the office procedures studied absolutely applied to my chainmaille company. As my business grew, I continued to try to learn everything I possibly could about business and the chainmaille industry.

My quest for knowledge and skills continues to this day. Last month, I attended the Women's Entrepreneurial Conference by the Women's Business Development Center. It was an amazing two days of networking, information and inspiration. One of the highlights of the program was the final lunch forum. There, I got to see journalist and author Terry Savage interview four fabulous women. They were so inspiring that I feel compelled to share their stories:

	Margaret J. Henningsen — At the age of 50, she got together with 2 of her other friends (also African-American women in their 50s) and founded Legacy Bank, serving underserved populations in Milwaukee. Wow! I mean, really, who decides to start a bank, much less at 50?!? Incidentally, they were the first women in Wisconsin history to open a state chartered commercial bank. Their loan programs have helped 1,000 businesses get off the ground. Legacy has brought $900 million of commerce to an area where other banks had no desire to go. Simply amazing.
	Mary Engelbreit — She was particularly inspiring to me, because she is an artist and business woman. I can't tell you how many folks in the business world turn up their noses when I tell them what I do, as if being an artist means I couldn't possibly understand anything about the business world! So, I felt vindicated by having Mary on stage. She is known for her illustrations, which have been featured on greeting cards, T-shirts, coffee mugs, in books, and just about anywhere you can put a drawing! All told, her licensed products have brought in $1 billion in sales over the years. Go, artists!
	Nely Galàn — Talk about a woman who knows what she wants, and goes for it! Nely started her career in entertainment at age 22 when she was named the nation's youngest station manager for WNJU TV Channel 47 in New York. Under her leadership, the station became Telemundo, a powerhouse in Latin American programming. Nely's sights were on even bigger and better things. In her career as a media mogul she launched 10 channels and produced 600 episodes of programming across a variety of genres. She is an avid supporter of Count Me In, the leading national non-profit provider for women entrepreneurs.
	Sue Ling Gin — Once upon a time, Sue was on a plane and bit into a half-frozen danish. Right then and there, she wrote a letter to the chairman of the airlines and told him that while she appreciated many aspects of the airline, the food needed improvement. "I have a pastry shop," she wrote. "Perhaps there is some way we can work together. I'll call you in three days." As it turns out, he wound up calling her in two days, and eventually—even though she had never done food production on such a large scale—she secured a $13 million contract. From there, she built her business, Flying Food Group, into a $200 million company with nearly 3,000 employees.

All of their stories really got me excited to get back to my business and see how it could improve and grow. And that's when it hit me: There's a difference between being a business owner and being an entrepreneur. A business owner is content to run the business and keep it solvent. An entrepreneur is hungry for new challenges and opportunties. An entrepreneur is not afraid to ask questions of anyone. Entrepreneurs are willing to make sacrifies for their dreams, and can learn from failures. Entrepreneurs think big, and thrive on lofty goals.

I am proud to be an entrepreneur, and I hope to inspire others, just as I have been inspired.

Silver and Niobium bracelet

Weave Variation - Rosas Con Oro

The Rosas con Oro is a variation on the Rosettes, which is, in turn, a slight variation on European 4-in-1 (Mesh). The original version used a sterling silver rings with small gold-fill rings (hence the "con oro"), however you can make the weave with other colors, or even a solid color. You can also connect Rosette segments with beads.

Prerequisite: European 4-in-1 (Mesh)
Base Metal Ring Sizes: H18 base metal (18g 3/16" / 4.8 mm) with D20 Enameled Copper (20g 1/8" / 3.2 mm)
Rings per inch (and for 7.5" of material): H18 x 14 (105), D20 x 3.5 (27)

Sterling Silver Ring Sizes: G18 silver (18g 11/64" / 4.4 mm) with B20 Niobium (20g 3/32" / 2.4 mm)
Rings per inch (and for 7.5" of material): G18 x 15 (113), B20 x 3.5 (27)

1. Weave a small section of European 4-in-1 onto a clasp. It should look like the photo above, with 3 "center" rings and 3 sets of outer rings.	2. When you add the next center ring, instead of adding 2 more outer rings, add 3 small rings (pre-closed) instead. Close the new center ring.	3. Now start as if from the beginning, and weave a new section of Euro 4-1. Once again, stop when you have to 3 sets of outer rings. (Note that the center rings are angled the same way as in the first unit of Euro 4-1, rather than being a mirrored immage. This isn't necessary, but it is pleasing to my eye when the center rings for the entire weave are angled in the same direction.)
4. As you add the next center ring, add 3 more small (pre-closed) rings.	5. Repeat this until your piece is as long as you need it to be. (If it is slightly longer, that's OK, as the next step will shorten the piece slightly.) You should finish with a single ring, and tie it off with a wire piece or attach the other end of the clasp.	6. With a new ring, go straight through the first 3 outer rings on one side, and close. Be sure to go straight through. Use a wire piece to guide you, if it helps.
7. Repeat on the other side. You've now completed your first Rosette.	8. Move to the next section and repeat steps 6-7 for the entire length of the piece.	Aluminum and Enameled Copper bracelet

Get creative with Rosettes!
H18 ALUM rosettes with our medium hammered rings and D20 enameled copper. The D20s are very tight; instead we recommend F19, a new enameled copper size coming soon to Blue Buddha!	H18 ALUM rosettes with mini glass donut rings and H18 AA black. (We will be selling the donuts eventually, but in the meantime, you can use anodized rings, or even rubber rings.)

Autumn Classes
We've updated the class calendar for October and some of November and December. These include classes taught by Rebeca and Vanessa. We're pleased to announce that Kat Wisniewski has begun teaching classes for us.

at Discovery Center

at Briolette

at Caravan

at LillStreet
We may add a session at Blue Buddha, too!

at Blue Buddha Boutique

Contact the specific store or gallery for a schedule or to register for a class.

Special Guest Instructor Susan C Thomas
October 18 - 19, 2008

We are pleased to welcome Susan Thomas to Chicago for a weekend of classes exclusively at Blue Buddha Boutique. Join her for workshops that combine colorful rubber rings with anodized aluminum and purchase autographed copies of her new book. For more info and to register>>

Newest Supplies

New Bracelet and
Pendant Kits!
Kits in base metal and sterling for this class, which Rebeca taught at Bead&Button 2008.

Duck Bill Pliers
Super-wide pliers. Excellent for large rings (such as the 12- and 10-gauge aluminum that we will eventually be carrying, as well as 16 gauge stainless.)

Link It!

This new book by Susan C. Thomas combines anodized aluminum and rubber rings to create funky and lively jewelry.

Rubber Rings

And of course, if you get the Link It book, you'll need rubber rings to complete your projects!

Feel free to contact Rebeca as always with questions or comments.
local: 773.478.3767 toll free: 866.602.RING (7464) rebeca@bluebuddhaboutique.com

Happy Weaving!

All content written by Rebeca Mojica, Blue Buddha Boutique artist & owner.