All Sale Rings are currently at the Bead&Button show.
We'll update this page within a week or two after the show.
PDFs are still available below.

Sale PDFs

The PDFs below are beta versions of instructions that aren't ready for retail sale at full price. Either they are very old and need to be redone, or they are lacking in some respect. Any anamolies are indicated in the description, along with ring sizes if that information is not listed in the tutorial.

			right and left handers	Suggested starting size in base metal: I18 for open round and G18 for Turkish Round.	In sterling silver Try F18 for Open Round and G16 for Turkish Round.
Open Round is an BEGINNER weave and Turkish Round is INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED. You should know how to weave Byzantine before attempting Turkish Round. Also, the instructions for Jacob's DNA Ladder include an excellent tutorial on Open Round. The instructions contain on overview of several different ways to finish the piece, with one method detailed in full.

		right handers	left handers	Suggested practice size in base metal for Half Persian 3-1 is L16 (10 rings per inch). Other sizes that work well are H18 (tight, but looks nifty with the anodized aluminum colors - 14 rings per inch) or I18 and D20. If D20 seems too tight for you, try E20. Because the enameled copper sizes are a little thicker due to the enameled coating, D20 is too tight to work in EC. For Half Persian 4-1, you can start with P16 (10 rings per inch) or L18 (12 rings per inch). Tinier Half Persian 4-1s can be made with F20 and D22.	In sterling silver, for Half Persian 3-1 is J16 (11 rings per inch). Other sizes that work well are H17, F18, and D20. For Half Persian 4-1, you can start with J17 (14 rings per inch) or L16 (also 14 rings per inch). Tinier Half Persian 4-1s can be made with G19, F20 and D21. A fabulously thick Half Persian can be made with O14.
We recommend using two colors to learn these weaves. It makes it much easier! Just remember that opposites attract: rings of one color ONLY weave through rings of the 2nd color, never through the same color. These instructions show how to make Half Persian 3-1 and how to make Half Persian 4-1. An older instrution set is also included, showing two additional ways to make Half Persian 4-1. Some people find certain ways easier, so use whichever method makes sense to you! One page of the instructions is titled "closing HP" but a more accurate description is "finishing HP" as that page just shows you where to add the clasp, and not how to permanently close the weave in on itself!

		right handers	left handers	Suggested starting size in base metal: H18. Any ring with an AR around 4.0 - 4.3 will work well. Ring counts are 27 rings per inch (about 203 needed for 7.5 inches of material).	In sterling silver Try H17 (also 27 rings per inch). For a sleeker and tigher gridlock byzantine, use F17 for stage one, and F18 in stage two. (This combo is fantastic, but it is significantly more difficult, and recommended only for advanced students!)
This is an ADVANCED weave. You should know how to weave European 4-1 before attempting this weave. They are different, but knowing European 4-1 is quite helpful. A common mistake in gridlock is made in stage 3. It may not look wrong at a glance, and can be difficult for beginners to spot. Check your weave against the photo in step 14. Note how the green rings are "leaning" in toward the center ring. (On the other side, the violet rings would be leaning in, but the idea is the same...there should always be edge rings leaning in toward the center.) The mistake happens when those edge rings are tilted away from the center ring instead of toward it. A pretty variation, but definitely not gridlock byzantine! The instructions do not show how to add a clasp. We suggest attaching a clasp onto the final center ring of each end. Depending on the orientation and type of clasp, you many need to add an extra ring or two to make the clasp sit correctly. (See the gridlock byzantine image in the classes section for a photo of one way to attach the clasp.

		right handers	left handers	Suggested practice size in base metal is L18. For a mesh ring, you'll want to use size D22 SSTL and you'll need about 100-150 rings, depending on how many rows the ring is and how long it is. A good intermediate size is F20, and a large size is P16.	In sterling silver, a good starting practice size is L17. For a thinner bracelet, use G19. We don't recommend making a finger ring out of silver unless you solder each ring closed.
These instructions show how to make the basic European 6-1. They also show how to permanently close the weave in on itself, which you'll need to do if you're making a finger ring. (They do not, however, show how to add a clasp for a bracelet.) If you want to make your ring wider, you can add rows by adding new rings along one edge after you've permanently closed the ring. One ring goes through three. (Make sure you know how to add rows one ring at a time to regular European 4-1 first, then just apply the same concept except go through three rings each time, instead of just two.)

		right handers	left handers	Suggested practice size in base metal is L18 or K18. You can also use P16 (or any 16gauge larger than size P). For a tiny version, use size G20.	In sterling silver, a good starting practice size is K17. You can also use size F20 for great necklace.
These instructions show how not just one, but two ways to weave Full Persian! Additionally, you'll learn how to add beads. This tutorial is great, but it's not full price because no instructions are provided for finishing the piece (though you can examine the finished necklace photo included to get a good idea of what to do), nor are ring counts listed.

		right handers	left handers	Suggested starting size in base metal: F18 for 2-connector byzantine or H18 for 3-connector byzantine. For a chunkier bracelet, use J16 for 2-connector byzantine and L16 for 3-connector bzyantine. A pack of 250 is suffient to make a bracelet in any of these sizes.	In sterling silver, start with F17 for 2-connector byzantine or H17 for 3-connector byzantine. For a chunkier bracelet, use J14 for 2-connector byzantine and L16 for 3-connector bzyantine.
The instructions do not show how to add a clasp. We suggest adding a clasp directly onto the final set of connector rings on each side of the weave. The byzantine weave starts with a later step; that's because the first few steps are the same as the box weave.